[Review] Dirty Burger, Under the Arches, Vauxhall

Dirty Burger's second London location is, suitably, under an arch, just outside Vauxhall mainline train station. This restaurant feels more permanent than the pop-up shed 'round the back' in Kentish Town, but it still feels transitory.

However the makeshift wooden bar, the fixed barstool seating, and exposed brickwork belie some serious kitchen kit - a flat top griddle to make Fred Smith sweat, rack of industrial fryers, and warming pad for fries - suggest it's another slick operation from Soho House.

Price:

Cheeseburger - £5.50
Flaming Hot Burger (special) - £6.50
Onion Fries - £3.00

Dirty Burger Vauxhall Menu

Presentation:

Good. The chefs chat to me as I watch my burgers sizzling on the flat top

The mahoosive flat top griddle at Dirty Burger, Vauxhall.

They're then wrapped in Dirty Burger branded greaseproof paper - my burgers and fries are delivered on an old branded tin tea tray. I like it. It feels like a DIY takeaway.

Unwrapped, the burgers are glued together with large amounts of semi-molten cheese and, true to their name, look pretty dirty.

The cheeseburger unwrapped at Dirty Burger 

Toppings:

Cheeseburger: The toppings on this stalwart are simply a mass of melted mozzarella which is piled on top of the patty during cooking - the edges of which have come in contact with the flat-top grill and caramelise into a fantastic crunchy, moreish mess. On top of the cheese/patty sit pickles and a slice of tomato, and below the beef is a mustard mayo 'slaw - both add an acidic balance to the creamy cheese and aged, tallowy beef. It's an incredibly moreish combination.

Flaming Hot burger: The special that's been so popular they've kept it an extra month, the Flaming Hot burger is topped with a supberb crispy pancetta, with a chilli mayo that gives a raw bit (very similar to Fred Smith's 333 chilli burger), and oodles of melted, smoked mozarella.

Dirty Burger - Flaming Hot burger special

Meat:

Dirty Burger's proprietary blend of beef is a lightly seasoned, mellow-flavoured joy. Balanced by the acidity of the toppings and complemented by the creamy cheese, it's glorious.

Dirty Burger Cheeseburger bite-through

Dirty Burger Flaming Hot burger bite-through

Bun:

Great. The super-soft toasted white bun fits the burger like a glove. The bun steams slightly in the greaseproof paper and gives you a perfect balance of malleable bun that retains the strength to wrap around the burger.

Accessories:

Two words. Onion Fries. A truly glorious side to have with anything, let alone two excellent burgers. These are big, chunky pieces of deep-fried battered onion. It's a big portion for £3 and you're mad if you don't order a set!

Dirty Burger, Flaming Hot Burger and Onion Fries. Representing. 

Overall Rating: 9.5/10

I'm rating the cheeseburger here - seeing as the Flaming Hot burger is just a special - and I think it has to be one of the best burgers in London at the moment. Think about it. Combination of some well executed, simple ingredients. Expertly cooked and constructed. Beautifully seasoned. Great taste. And it's just £5.50, that's an absolute steal for this burger.

Actually, make that £8.50 as you'd be mad not to order some onion fries.

Click to view on my Interactive Burger Map.